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Collection No. 37 — A hand-dyed indigo kimono suspended in the atelier. Collection No. 37 / 2025

The Annual Archive  ·  1987–Present

Collections

Each year the atelier releases a single numbered collection. No piece is reproduced. No piece is reprinted. What you see below is the complete record of Madonna Sugamo’s work — arranged, as in the Kyoto Museum of Textile Arts, by number and year.

You have arrived at the archive. Acquisition is by private inquiry only.

A Note on Numbering

Why every Madonna Sugamo piece carries a number.

The atelier produces fewer than one hundred and eighty numbered pieces each calendar year — kimono, obi, and the small jewels that accompany them. The figure is not a marketing line. It is the practical ceiling of what twenty-three artisans can dye, stitch, finish, and sign by hand, working from a single studio overlooking the Imperial Palace gardens in Tokyo.

Every garment leaves the atelier stamped with a lot number, a dye lot, and the signature of the master responsible for its final pressing. Kimonos from the same dye bath share a lot number even when they belong to different numbered pieces — a quiet record of which indigo, which persimmon, which morning of which year entered the silk.

The result is a structural scarcity. Past capsule collections have sold through in under five hours. The current waitlist for bespoke commissions stretches fourteen months into 2027. Numbering is the atelier’s way of being honest about how slowly, and how deliberately, a piece must be made before it can be worn.

Now Showing  ·  The Current Collection

Collection No. 37  /  2025

168 numbered pieces Six dye lots  ·  Six master signatures

A study in late-autumn persimmon against deep katayama indigo, drawn from the family’s sixth-generation yuzen archive and finished by hand over the long winter of 2024–25.

  1. Piece No. 37-041 — Indigo kimono with persimmon obi.
    No. 37–041 2025

    Aoyagi — The Blue Persimmon

    Dye Lot
    Lot K-25 / III
    Artisan
    Sasaki Toshiko, Senior Dyer
    Silk
    Hand-loomed habotai, Gunma

    The defining obi of the collection — a single persimmon band against six metres of katayama blue.

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  2. Piece No. 37-092 — Persimmon obi.
    No. 37–092 2025

    Kaki-iro — Persimmon Tone

    Dye Lot
    Lot P-25 / I
    Artisan
    Yamada Hiro, Master Weaver
    Weave
    Twill, 14-day hand finish

    A study in the single pigment that gives the collection its seasonal name.

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  3. Piece No. 37-128 — Yuzen indigo kimono.
    No. 37–128 2025

    Yuzen — November Maples

    Dye Lot
    Lot K-25 / VII
    Artisan
    Kobayashi Ren, Living National Treasure
    Pigment
    Hand-brushed yuzen, 41 hours

    The collection’s signature piece — each maple leaf brushed individually across eleven days.

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  4. Piece No. 37-159 — Maple-leaf brooch.
    No. 37–159 2025

    Momiji — A Single Leaf, in Gold

    Edition
    Numbered 1 of 24
    Artisan
    Ide Yoshie, Master Jeweler
    Metal
    24k yamato-gold, hand-set

    The companion jewel to the November Maples kimono — designed to be worn at the obi or suspended from a chain.

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The Maker’s Hand

Signatures appearing on Collection No. 37.

The atelier is twenty-three people, all working from a single Tokyo floor. Four of the names below belong to artists designated Living National Treasures of Japan.

  1. Kobayashi Ren

    Yuzen Master & Living National Treasure

    With the atelier — 34 years

    Painted the November Maples signature across forty-one hours of hand-brushing on Piece No. 37–128.

  2. Sasaki Toshiko

    Senior Indigo Dyer

    With the atelier — 29 years

    Prepared the katayama indigo vats for dye lot K-25 / III, a six-week fermentation begun in October 2024.

  3. Yamada Hiro

    Master Weaver & Living National Treasure

    With the atelier — 41 years

    Wove the persimmon obi cloth on a wooden shuttle loom in the atelier’s third-floor studio over fourteen days.

  4. Ide Yoshie

    Master Jeweler & Living National Treasure

    With the atelier — 22 years

    Forged and set the 24-piece Momiji brooch edition, each leaf finished and signed by hand.

Prior Volumes

The archive, by number and year.

A selection of six recent collections, kept here for returning clients and the curators who follow the work. Earlier volumes are documented in the Journal.

  1. Collection No. 36, 2024 — Ash & Bone.
    No. 36 2024

    Ash & Bone

    172 numbered pieces · Sold through

  2. Collection No. 35, 2023 — Quiet Field.
    No. 35 2023

    Quiet Field

    174 numbered pieces · Sold through

  3. Collection No. 34, 2022 — Moss & Sumi.
    No. 34 2022

    Moss & Sumi

    169 numbered pieces · Sold through

  4. Collection No. 33, 2021 — Late Cranes.
    No. 33 2021

    Late Cranes

    176 numbered pieces · Sold through

Earlier volumes, in the Journal  →

A piece is finished not when nothing more can be added, but when nothing more should be.

Madonna Sugamo  ·  Founder’s Notebook, 1994